Cinque Terre - and One Queen

Vernazza - second stop - between Corniglia and Monterosso

Our first big trip to Italy since moving to France.

How lame! It's just over the border from us in Antibes.

But I've been so focused on France and my FOUR QUEENS - the four sisters from medieval Provence - I'm really interested only in France and the UK.

But now it's sinking in that the fourth sister, Béatrice, became queen of the Two Sicilies (yes, there were two) and Naples.

So Italy's now on my research map!

Liguria - where the Cinque Terre (the Five Towns) lie - does not figure in her story. But they are on my Personal Bucket List. So here I am.

If I can't do my research, What's keeping me interested??

I'M LOOKING FOR DIFFERENCES

(between France and Italy)

First: ALL THAT COLOR

See photo above of Vernazza. The city of Nice, which was Italian until 1862 (ish) is pretty colorful. Antibes more restrained. But Italy - they love to paint their buildings.

Second: ROMANTIC RUINS

Those colorful buildings, well - they could use a bit more TLC. Maybe there's more money in France for that. Or maybe they don't see it. Or they embrace the history in the peeling paint and crumbling stucco.

Third: TROMPE L'OEIL

Is everywhere. You find some in Nice. None in Antibes.

Can you spot what's real and what's fake?

Fourth: Great apéro snacks!

In France, you're lucky to get a bowl of nuts, maybe olives, often pretzels (which Miss Celiac here can't eat).

In Italy - you get chips, olives, a little pizza, a little foccacia with salami, a little other snackies. Since I can't drink on an empty stomach, I'm a Happy Camper

Tippy Tipsy Happy Hour - Levanto - Piper Bar

Fifth - AND MOST IMPORTANT?

BIDETS are required BY LAW

I love a bidet. They were invented in France in 1710 for the nobility. But they've largely disappeared here. In Italy, the opposite - a law in 1975 made them mandatory in new construction.

Some blame (credit?) the toilet paper lobby for their fall from favor.

I'M HIKING MY B*TT OFF

The big deal in the Cinque Terre is hiking from one village to the next.

How'd that go?

DAY ONE.

This is BEFORE we hit the trail. Obviously.

First: "Corniglia to Monterosso is 7 kilometers, should take approximately 3 hours."

I thought - prayed - they were kidding. But it WAS only half-way.

Only 7 kilometers. I do 10, 15 with my hiking club.

So why did this kill hike me??

We took the route on the left. We had to hump the humps.

Look at all those camel backs. Some are hundreds of stone steps. Very uneven, cracked steps. Some very steep rises, challenging for my little legs.

Yes, there are some railings. Often wooden ones. I'm happy to report I got only two splinters.

Yes, there are many lovely views (though ogling was negatively affected by trying not to trip and break my face).

Second: amusements along the way. This Man in the Wall. Like you discover in the ramparts in Antibes. But much bigger.

Third: Music - from the ridiculous to the sublime - and back again!

A howler included with our coffee in Corniglia - but you gotta love his sense of purpose. I'll bet this is what keeps him going.

Never expected to hear YMCA - on the flute

Uplifting organ music in Vernazza.

I can't post videos here. Find them on my FACEBOOK.

Fourth - at last, a link to my Béatrice!

The Guelphs were the people/party who favored the Pope - who favored Charles.

The Ghibellines backed the Holy Roman Emperor. Whose son was Charles main competition for the throne.

And here are a bunch "Gulphi" - now spelled Guelfi. Spotted mere hours after I read about them

HOW IS THAT FOR A SYNCHRONICITY??

Stay tuned for more about his in my next episode (aka blog).